Making your prints stay put

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    Brianpoor

    I have been attempting to make parts with a fairly large footprint on an unheated glass bed and the tendency of the parts to warp and curl away from the platform was pronounced. I finally got a really good print using this procedure. Cover the glass print bed with blue masking tape, as described above, and spray with cheap hair spray. Then lay down the print with a raft, BUT as the printing sequence starts to transition from the raft to the actual part, pause the print head. Then, go in with thin super glue (a.k.a. cyanoacrylate) and tack down all the suspect edges before they can start to pull off of the taped surface. Not a lot of glue is needed. Just enough to make contact with the edge of the raft and the tape along the edge that needs the help. I then put a couple of drops of Zip Kicker (accelerator) on the glued area to set up the glue, dried it off with a blast from a hair dryer and then resumed the print process. The resulting part was flawless and the only extra clean up involved replacing some tape on the print bed.

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    Yakov Gorodnitsky

    PEI. Works like magic. I got some 12x12 sheets from mcmaster, some 468 3M tape, 30 minutes of careful application to the heated bed, and no more warping, bad first layers, glue sticks, ABS slurry, hairspray, rubber chicken, or whatever other voodoo we used to do.

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