As an important maintenance step in taking care your your Plywood Series 1, you may need to replace your extruder's motor. The stock motor is a 4-lead bipolar NEMA 17 stepper motor with a 0.9 degree stepping angle. If you intend to replace other toolhead or gantry wires, there are special instructions at step 9. You may have to remove some of the cable management in the electronics bay as well.
Time Required: 45-90 min
Skill Level: Medium
Tools Required: 2mm Hex Key, 2.5mm Hex Key (On some machines)
1. Completely power off, unplug, and disconnect your computer from your machine.
2. Remove the Extruder from the machine. See this link on how to remove and replace your hot end. In this case, you will simply be removing the hot end in order to facilitate replacing the E-motor. Users who only intend to replace other toolhead cables (the red/black fan wire, the orange heater cable, or the purple temperature sensor wire, for instance) may skip any step that involves taking apart your extruder.
In order to remove the hot end, you will also need to remove the fan bracket.
3. Once you've removed your extruder, set the offending motor it somewhere will it won't fall. The above image isn't a good example if you're a beginner, but it's better than letting it dangle. You could set it on the platform if it reaches high enough.
4. Remove the p-clip shown above. Set the p-clip and it's fasteners aside.
5. Unscrew the back panel from the machine. Take care not to loose any nuts or bolts!
6. Unwrap the spiral wrap that makes up the wire harness. This will leave your cables a bit messy. The picture above shows the toolhead cables and the X-axis cables.
7. As you unwrap the spiral wrap, you will need to undo two more p-clips. Set them and their fasteners aside.
8. Now that you've unwrapped everything, you should be able to remove the motor from the machine. The motor is connected to the area marked "E0" shown as the middle-right (blue-red-green-black) connection in the above photo.
9. If you also intend to replace other toolhead or gantry wires, the red/black fan wire is connected to the D9 terminal in the manner shown, with red on the left (+) and black on the right (ground). The orange heater wire is on the D10 terminal, right next to the fan wire. It doesn't matter which way the orange wires are connected. The purple thermistor wire can be found as the purple wire connected to the pins marked "T0", the X-endstop shown as the white connection, and the X-motor connection just to the left of the E-motor connection.
10. Reassemble the extruder. You can learn more about reassembling the extruder here.
11. Once you've secured the new motor, extruder and all to the machine, it's time to wrap everything up. Start from the head of the extruder. Make the first wrap around the three toolhead cables. Then add the extruder motor's cables just before adding the p-clip.
12. When wrapping, keep each revolution of the spiral wrap relatively close to the previous revolution. The closer the wire is, the better it will hold up. If the wire is wrapped to far apart, the wire harness may fail sooner than otherwise.
13. As your wrap approaches the point on the gantry where the X-motor and X-endstop join, make sure there is enough length of the toolhead cables to allow the X-axis full range of motion. While you wrap this first section of harness, it's a good idea to move the toolhead all the way to the right as shown above.
14. Here's what adding the gantry components to the wrap looks like. Notice how the motor and endstop wrap around before joining the spiral, kind of like an interstate on-ramp.
Note also the direction in which this p-clip is facing.
15. Finish wrapping the harness, stopping for the last p-clip along the way.
Once again, make sure that there is enough distance so that the Y-axis has full range of motion. To ensure this, move the gantry all the way to the front of the machine.
16. If there was a cable management scheme (such as zip ties) on your machine that you had to remove in order to follow any steps, now would be the time to tie everything up again.
17. When re-fastening the back of the machine, make sure that no cables get pinched between it and other pieces of the Series 1 inner frame. Try not to loose any nuts inside the machine!
You should be good to go once you've "buttoned up" everything. Fire up your Series 1 and get back to printing!