Here are all settings in KISSlicer with which you should familiarize yourself. You can find more information about them both on our community forum and on KISSlicer's forum.
Before diving into the specific settings, it's important to understand that there are three main elements of a 3D Print. Solid Layers are usually at the bottom and the top of the print, as they make up the outer shell of the object on the horizontal (XY) axes. Loops and Perimeters are the sides of each and every layer, and both add strength to the print and act as the vertical (Z) dimensional shell of your print. The perimeter is just the outermost loop. Lastly Infill makes up everything that you cannot see. It's the internal structure of your print, and it can be a great number of densities and in a variety of patterns.
Straight away you can control the the bead of the extrusion in the first place. This just means the shape of the filament that is squeezed out of the nozzle. A good rule of thumb is that the bead should be at least 60% wider than it is thick. If your resolution is set to 100 microns (0.10mm), than your extrusion width should be at least 0.16mm, though more is better.
The shape if the bead is controlled by just those two concepts, width and height. Layer height is also referred to as layer resolution, and vertical accuracy. The Series 1 can go from a resolution minimum of 300 microns to as high as 50 microns. Some of our users have done even better, but resolution adds time to your print. A 1 hour print at 300 microns may take 6 hours at 50 microns.
The way our settings are set up in KISSlicer are such that layer resolution, the most well known setting, is the style of the print, which you select in the drop down menu at the top of the styles tab. You can adjust the layer height independently but we recommend that you not because it invalidates the name of the style! Of course you can if you are confident in what you are doing.
Extrusion width is controlled in the styles tab in each setting. You can even specify one layer thickness for loops and another for infill. Just remember the 60% rule, also known as the 1.6 rule because the width should be an absolute minimum of 1.6 times the height. This way, there will be enough surface area for the bead to adhere to the build surface or previous layers.
Below are some settings you will find in the styles tab.
Skin Thickness [mm] – Sets outer wall thickness
Number of loops – Adjusts layers for outer walls vs. infill area
Inset Surface [mm] – Leave this at 0 (advanced)
Infill Extrusion Width – Same as above may alter if you want overlapping or sparse infill
Layer Thickness [mm] – This is RESOLUTION. The Series 1 is capable of 50 micron (0.05mm) resolutions however they GREATLY increase print time, and some projects will experience only a minimal improvement on quality. Remember that if you're new to 3D Printing, when you adjust layer height, limit yourself to just changing the style (which encapsulates all of the settings below).
Infill Slider – This lets you adjust the amount of infill will fill your volume. The higher the value, the more dense the infill. Hollow tries to maintain the interior volume while Vase removes the top entirely.
Your project may require any one of these options to print properly.
Infill Style – Straight: Quick, easy, good strength, heavy; Round – Takes time, looks good, not as strong; Octagon – Takes more time, very strong, light. Infill is covered with photo examples later.
De-String – Runs a De-String command after each layer.